How did it do?
Pre-dinner cocktail
I’m not a cocktail person because I find them too fruity. I prefer the heft of a good bourbon, and the selection included Maker’s Mark, Knob Creek, Jim Beam, and Elijah Craig. But I figured, let’s try the Pomegranate Martini, expertly made by Andrew, the long-time bartender. (Ask for him; you’ll thank me later), The tasty orange and cherry-flavored drink wasn’t sweet. It set the stage for dinner.
Course one: Duckhorn Sauvignon Blanc with Spinach Arancini
I looked at the wine list while at the bar and saw a 1-liter bottle of Caymus 50, the 2022 vintage, for $100. I thought that was a misprint because it sells for $80 at area retail stores. It wasn’t, so I grabbed it.
Anytime you serve wine it needs to be poured at the right temperature, with whites at about 55 degrees (some say less) and reds a bit higher, 60 degrees or so.
The Sav Blanc came to the table so warm it bordered on undrinkable. You can’t serve white wine like lukewarm tea and expect it to hold its flavor. The Caymus seemed like it had rested under a heat lamp. I took a short sip and put it aside so it could open and settle. It was so warm I thought about asking for a bucket of ice (but didn’t).
I looked forward to the arancini, which came four to a bowl with a brown, crusty exterior And while it was good, it wasn’t arancini, which is traditionally made with rice, cheese, and other ingredients. These were more like mozzarella balls. At a closer look, the menu description doesn’t list rice as an ingredient so maybe it was mislabeled. Still, warm wine and arancini with no rice = no bueno.
Course two: Golden Eye by Duckhorn Pinot Noir with Shrimp Fra Diavolo
The pinot was also served too warm, a shame since the shrimp dish looked so good. I wondered how the wine’s spiciness would pair with the Diavolo’s heat, but I had to wait for the wine to get close to temp.
When it did, that was a winning pairing. I’m not a Pinot fan, but this one had bold dark berry flavors I enjoyed, and the wine’s spice complemented the light sauce well. This was the best dish of the night, with firm shrimp and a light sauce that coated and didn’t overwhelm the pasta.
Carrabba’s gets big marks here. The restaurant made an accommodation for someone who didn’t like shrimp and substituted chicken. That puts extra strain on the kitchen and wait staff, and that effort should never be overlooked.
Course 3: Greenwing Duckhorn Cabernet Sauvignon, Sirloin Spinach Ardente
Course three was a monster, a 10-ounce sirloin with green beans. And now I had two wines to try — the Duckhorn (it was at the right temp) and the Caymus.
The thick chewy sirloin disappointed at first. It looked great, but several at the table cut into it to find a tough piece of silver skin that was hard to break through. I quickly realized the steak needed to be cut thin, and that made all the difference. It was flavorful and juicy. Still, you shouldn’t have to experiment with slicing your meal to find that right thickness.
I’ve had the Duckhorn cab before and it’s a nice everyday wine with hints of cherry and plum. But it was Caymus that stole the show. It’s a sugary, fruit-forward tannic wine with hints of plum and blackberries. It’s the kind of big powerful wine I like (though some would call it an over-extracted fruit bomb).
The Caymus and thin slices of steak saved the meal.
Course 4: Decoy by Duckhorn Merlot with Chocolate Crème Brule with strawberries
I don’t care for Crème Brûlée because it reminds me of another custard-based dish, flan, which is not my thing. But hey, a chocolate Crème Brule might be OK. It wasn’t. It was spectacular. The crunchy sugar on top of the silky-smooth dessert with the hint of light chocolate made me go, “wow!” The Decoy was the best Duckhorn served all night, not nearly as big as the cab but with better dark fruit balance and a medium finish. And yes, the Caymus was the best wine with the dessert.
Score: 5 out of 5 (and I would eat several)
A recap
The dinner started at 6:30 p.m., and the checks came by 7:40 p.m. That’s far too fast for a wine dinner, which should be relaxing so you can enjoy the experience and company. A little more leisure would go a long way.
The servers poured the first glass of the night, the Sauv Blanc, and I liked that because I could ask for a half pour. But after that, all of the wine was pre-poured. I realize that it’s a time saver and easier on the staff, but I much prefer the option to get less if I like.
The service was the best part of the night, as everyone was attentive and accommodating. Bravo!
All in all, it was an interesting dinner that contrasted with some of the high-end experiences in town. If you’re interested in value, a lot of food, good wines and fast service, there’s not much to complain about. Those looking for something more elevated, you could be disappointed.
Ray Marcano writes Fine Wine and Dine for the Dayton Daily News and DaytonDailyNews.com. He can be reached at winedineddn@gmail.com.
THE REVIEW
What: Carrabba’s Italian Grill, 900 Miamisburg Centerville Road, Washington Twp.
Appetizer: 1 out of 5. Warm wine is never good
Fish course: 5 out of 5. The Shrimp Fra Diavolo had nice heat
Meat course: 3 out of 5. The sirloin was chewy
Dessert: 5 out of 5. One of the best local desserts you’ll find
Service: 5 out of 5: Attentive and helpful all night
Ambiance: 3.5 out of 5: It’s tough to do a wine tasting in a pre-configured space with bad sound.
Your feedback: Do you have a favorite Paragon Supper Club meal? Let us know at winedineddn@gmail.com.
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